Is it just me or do you sometimes feel that the hectic pace of city life becomes a bit overwhelming? Please don’t get me wrong – I absolutely adore living in Cape Town and enjoy everything the Mother City has to offer.
But sometimes, a change of scenery is needed to soothe one’s weary city-dwelling body, mind and soul; a place where you can relax, recharge and just breathe. I recently discovered the perfect place to do just that. And it’s just over an hour’s drive from Cape Town so it’s perfect for a weekend getaway. Whether you’re looking to celebrate a special occasion with a loved one or enjoy some new adventures with your besties, Essere Lodge is the place to be and makes for an ideal country stay.
Leave the city behind and enjoy a leisurely drive that will take you through the scenic Nuwekloof Pass. You’ll be greeted by the picturesque Tulbagh valley that is almost completely surrounded by the majestic Witzenberg, Winterhoek and Obiqua Mountain ranges. The charming historical town of Tulbagh can be found at the northern end of the valley. Having stayed here a few times over the years, no visit is complete without stopping at Twee Jonge Gezellen, the home of Krone. Yes please to bubbles!
It was a beautiful sunny winter’s day so chilling on The Tasting Deck with a glass (or two!) of MCC Krone Rosé Cuvée Brut was just what we felt like doing. Add in magnificent mountain views and I was very happy indeed!
As always, it’s incredibly tough to tear yourself away from the divine bubbly and views, but we eventually managed it and bought a few bottles to take home. Tip – they don’t serve platters or food of any kind, so do not arrive hungry or you’ll end up “hangry”! 😉
After a short drive that took us back through the quaint town of Tulbagh, we arrived at Essere Lodge, our home away from home for the night. Taking in the tranquil surroundings, I already knew that one night simply wouldn’t be enough and that we would definitely return for a longer stay. Greeted excitedly by the funny duo of Watson and Sherlock, the resident hounds, and Alison and Lawrie, our gracious and friendly hosts, we were shown to our spacious room, the Protea Suite.
There are eight suites to choose from that are serviced daily and include all the amenities that one expects from a luxury establishment. Each comfortable suite has a private patio with stunning mountain views. Their signature décor style is farmhouse chic with an industrial twist, complemented by soft natural furnishings.
I immediately fell in love with the fireplace and the large bathtub that is quite literally beside the lounge area with the most amazing mountain views out the glass door. As they have their own borehole water, I thought I’d treat myself to a relaxing bath later that evening.
Shower with a view? This is the perfect spot to enjoy a private outdoor shower in the hot summer months.
After settling in, I joined Alison to explore the beautiful property. Her and Lawrie, her husband, recently moved to Tulbagh from the United Kingdom and bought Essere Lodge. The property had been standing empty for two years prior to that. As they say, it’s a work in progress and so far, they’ve done a magnificent job of creating a relaxing and tranquil haven.
The lush, flowing gardens are filled with indigenous water-wise plants and there are delightful surprises to be found everywhere.
I loved the lemon trees that were filled with fragrant, ripe lemons and even got to pick some to take home. Plans are underway to create their own sustainable vegetable and herb garden.
The gorgeous swimming pool and deck is where you’ll find me when I visit in summer. There is also a braai (barbeque) and pizza oven to enjoy on balmy summer days and nights.
The central hub of Essere Lodge is a former barn that has been converted into a modern and stylish space with floor-to-ceiling windows that allow the natural light in and offer breathtaking mountain views.
Take a seat on one of the comfy couches beside the inviting fireplace, curl up with a good book and a glass of award-winning wine from the fully stocked bar.
This is definitely one of my favourite spots at the Lodge and the perfect place to spend a few lazy hours during winter. One thing’s for sure – I did not spend nearly enough time in front of the roaring fire!
All that fresh country air certainly gets the appetite going. A delicious breakfast is included in your room rate and is served in the dining area in the barn or on the patios overlooking the tranquil garden and mountains. Start your day off with some fresh fruit, yoghurt, various cereals and juice, followed by a yummy farmhouse style breakfast with the full works – egg, bacon, sausages, mushrooms, toast and coffee!
Sipping on fine wine and chatting on the pool deck while taking in the glorious views reminded me that it’s important to slow down every now and then and to enjoy your surroundings and just be – a girl could seriously get used to this relaxed way of living!
Before we knew it, it was time for dinner and we set off with Alison, Lawrie, Letishia Charles (Queen Bee Hospitality Marketing) and Stoan Bartel (Moonmoth Interactive), their web developer and photographer. Paddagang Restaurant (23 Church Street) is a quaint and charming family style restaurant. We had a lovely time chatting, drinking some lovely red wine close to the fire and dining on some hearty country fare. My creamy butter chicken curry hit the spot and hubby devoured his chicken and mushroom fettuccine.
After a fun and busy day, hubby and I were ready to call it a night. He got the fire going and poured some more wine while I enjoyed a rare treat – relaxing in a hot bath. It was pure bliss! Being winter and almost completely surrounded by mountains, it was a cold night out but so cosy inside. Our bed was super comfy and the electric blankets kept us toasty and warm. I love sleeping in when we go away, especially when our son is home with Granny so we don’t have to be up early. But, this wasn’t to be as we received an early wake-up call thanks to our neighbours, the cows! Tip – bring earplugs if you don’t want to be woken up at dawn. Having said that, you are out in the country so early morning wake-up calls are to be expected!
Just look at the gorgeous mountain views that can be seen from the Protea Suite. Can you spot the moon?
Breakfast in the barn was a leisurely affair. Alison suggested we visit a newly opened cheese shop in Tulbagh called Cheese on Church Deli. I’m so happy she did as I’m a BIG cheese lover and their cheeses are AMAZING! Lovingly handcrafted on the Druk My Niet farm near Tulbagh, they are proving to be extremely popular. Peter Rose is incredibly passionate about the cheese-making process and told us about the varieties they offer, along with some tastings.
These include 100% Jersey Camembert, 100% Goats Milk Camembert, Bon Chevre (Fresh Goats Milk Cheese), Fior di Latte Mozzarella, Cumin Bergkaese, Plain Bergkaese and Quart (German-style Cream Cheese). Druk My Niet’s Cumin Bergkaese has now been included on the First Class menus of South African Airways and Emirates. Need I say more? Naturally I had to buy some to take home! Tip – look for the bike shop at 10 Church Street and go through to the back to feast on some cheesy goodness!
I’m so happy that we’ve discovered the unique gem that is Essere Lodge; and even happier that it’s only a short drive from Cape Town. The Lodge’s location makes it the perfect country getaway, whether you’re looking for a relaxing and tranquil time amongst nature at Essere, or using it as your base to explore all that the abundant Tulbagh Valley and surrounding area has to offer. I find that genuine hospitality is quite rare these days, but Alison and Lawrie have shown that it does indeed exist.
All too soon, it was time to say farewell – it isn’t easy to leave such a special place after one night, especially when you’ve fallen in love with it. But we’ve promised to return in the summer. There’s a deck chair beside the pool with my name on it waiting just for me!
Photo credit – Stoan Bartel – Essere Lodge signpost
Be sure to contact Alison to book your suite for a few nights. But don’t wait until summer to book your stay. A winter stay is just as much fun with roaring fires, robust red wines, snowfalls on the mountains (it happens from time to time) and delicious cuisine. They also cater for intimate weddings and events. And remember to let me know about your experience at Essere Lodge. It’s the place to be.
Please note: Our stay at Essere Lodge was enjoyed at no cost for review purposes. All views and images are my own (except for the last image).
Essere Lodge looks like heaven on earth. Soaking in a tub by a roaring fire with a glass in hand…it doesn’t get more relaxed than that. Glad you had a lovely time! 🙂
It is a heavenly place! A hot bath with wine and a roaring fire in the middle of winter was just perfect 🙂 The location of the Lodge is perfect too – a short distance from the village of Tulbagh and it’s attractions and so peaceful being amongst nature. Definitely worth a visit at any time of the year!