During my travels throughout the years, both locally and internationally, there is almost no place that quite compares to the natural beauty and diversity than that of the magnificent Cape winelands in the Western Cape. It is no wonder that many international visitors flock here in their droves. There are an abundance of unique wine estates offering award-winning wines and world-class restaurants, luxurious five-star hotels and charming B&B’s, off-the-beaten track adventure and cultural activities, not to mention spectacular vineyard and mountain views that are a nature and photographer lover’s dream.
Franschhoek’s main road on a sunny winter’s day.
I was recently invited to sip, savour and explore my way through the beautiful and historic towns of Franschhoek and Stellenbosch. I never tire of visiting the winelands and was excited to return to some places that I had previously visited, and experience some new places and spaces. Here is what Craig Howes and I discovered during our trip, including an interesting cultural outing to Kayamandi, situated just outside Stellenbosch. Happy reading travel, foodie and wine lovers!
FOR THE WINE LOVERS
Haut Espoir – Franschhoek
It had been nearly a year since my first visit to this boutique winery where elephant once roamed the Franschhoek Valley many years ago. Haut Espoir means ‘High Hope’ and the 23 hectare farm has been run by the Armstrong family since 1999. Producing distinctive, hand-crafted wines in harmony with nature, the winery began their biodynamic transition in 2011.
They focus mainly on red wine varietals and 8 hectares are planted with Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. The remaining land is dedicated to fynbos restoration, a riverine ecosystem, olive groves and vegetable and herb garden.
Crafting exceptional wines using biodynamic practices has it’s challenges, and I admire the minimal impact they have on the environment through their various viticultural practices. They have actively restored the environment around the farm and use no fungicides, insecticides or commercially bought fertilizers. Water conservation is practiced daily and the winery effluent is managed through a bio-reactor and wetland system.
Warmly greeted by Rob Armstrong, or the ‘Gentle Giant’ as I like to call him, we were shown into the Tasting Shed where a cosy fire was waiting for us. The sun may have been shining brightly, but the wintry breeze outside made our decision to enjoy a wine tasting beside the fire an easy one.
Fear not white wine lovers! They offer a few white varietals such as Chardonnay and Semillon. The grapes used to make their white wines are sourced from local wine farms. I tasted an interesting Shiraz Rosé 2016 that will be perfect for sipping on a warm spring day. A firm favourite is the Gentle Giant, a blend of 4 cultivars. Their 2010 vintage is unfortunately sold out, although I quite enjoyed the 2012 vintage. However, the Shiraz 2011, completely stole the show in my opinion. With warm hospitality, exceptional wines and grand mountain views, venture out of Franschhoek village and enjoy the scenic drive to this lovely wine estate. See if you can spot the elephant in the mountains that is featured on the Gentle Giant label.
Lanzerac Wine Estate – Stellenbosch
Stellenbosch Wine Routes represent more than 200 wine and grape producers within the boundaries of the Stellenbosch Wine of Origin. It would take many years to experience them all. I should know – I’ve been at it for over 13 years! Lanzerac Hotel & Spa is a five-star world-renowned wine tourism destination and is steeped in history dating back to 1692. Synonymous with old-world charm and rich Cape heritage, this beautiful estate is a must visit whilst in Stellenbosch.
We popped in for a delectable Wine and Chocolate Tasting in the elegant yet relaxed Tasting Room beside the fireplace. This unique tasting consists of 5 Premium wines that are perfectly paired with a selection of artisanal chocolates (R120 per person).
What’s not to love about sipping exquisite wines and nibbling on heavenly chocolates? And don’t forget the cosy fireplace.
Spier Wine Farm – Stellenbosch
Another popular and well-known wine tourism destination, Spier is one of South Africa’s oldest wine farms, with a fascinating history dating back to 1692. Craig and I were fortunate to stay over for one night, but I’ll tell you more about that later.
On the last day of our trip, we made ourselves comfortable in the airy, light and art-filled Tasting Room with views of the Spier Dam. The grand centre piece is the iconic Heath Nash chandelier which hangs above the tasting counter. Quite the showstopper, it is made from 334 recycled Spier wine bottles, weighing 370kgs!
There are various tasting options and we both chose the premium Frans K. Smit tasting (R90 per person). These are their top-tier, award-winning wines. Frans K. Smit is their flagship wine and with good reason. It is a handcrafted, limited release blend named after their Cellar Master as a tribute to his exceptional wine-making skill (R895 per bottle).
The tasting also includes the Spier Creative Block award-winning blends that celebrate their heritage varietals and are named in honour of the farm’s architectural legacy.
Frans K. Smit 2013 is without a doubt one of the most exquisite wines that has ever passed my lips. It truly is a magnificent wine that is guaranteed to make any occasion magical with an ageing potential of up to 20 years.
FOR THE CRAFT BEER LOVERS
Beer Tasting At Tuk Tuk Microbrewery – Franschhoek
Fancy a break from fine wining and dining? Check out Tuk Tuk Brew, a craft lover’s dream come true. This uber-cool microbrewery in the centre of town attracts the local crowd, and is also popular with international visitors.
Brewmaster Dewald Goosen is a master at crafting bespoke brews and all are made on-site in the 250-litre capacity copper microbrewery.
There are currently 5 Tuk Tuk craft brews, including a seasonal brew. I favour a lighter craft beer and the fruity not-so-traditional Weizen, containing American and South African hops, is my fave. You can also choose from a selection of 5 of their partner CBC’s top brews which are made at their state-of-the-art plant at Spice Route in Paarl.
Feeling peckish? “Tuk” into a delightful selection of tasty snacks such as tacos with various fillings, burgers, nachos and buffalo wings.
FOR THE FOODIE LOVERS
A stay in the Cape Winelands wouldn’t be complete without dining on fabulous fare. Franschhoek, known as South Africa’s gourmet capital, offers food and wine experiences that are simply next level. The Franschhoek Valley even has its own Food & Wine Route where gastronomes can enjoy a variety of delectable food and wine pairings, olive oil tastings, Cap Classique tastings, making your own chocolate Willy Wonka-style and cooking classes in demonstration kitchens.
Lunch at La Petite Ferme – Franschhoek
I was thrilled to return to La Petite Ferme as the spectacular valley views and superb award-winning wines are out of this world, not to mention the restaurant’s delicious contemporary country cuisine. To be honest, I could spend all day here and would love to stay over in one of their luxury suites for a night or two.
I love it when establishments focus on sourcing the best and freshest in-season local ingredients. La Petite Ferme offers a sustainable menu with produce grown locally in the valley of Franschhoek. I was blown away by the beautifully cooked and elegantly plated dishes last year and this year was no exception. Perhaps it was even better than my first experience. But first … bubbles! A glass of Colmant Brut Reserve was the perfect way to begin our culinary feast.
The menu offers a selection of exquisite starters, mains and desserts prepared in an exciting and innovative style. This is no ordinary menu and incorporates some heavenly South African flavours. My starter was a delicious Baked Camembert with asparagus pesto, black garlic, candied walnuts and fig confit. Not just pretty to look at, but heavenly to eat too.
Craig’s starter was another winner – Beetroot & Orange Cured Salmon. Foodie art on a plate!
I absolutely adore fish and seafood, so I chose Franschhoek Trout as my main course.
I must admit that I was a tad envious when I saw what Craig had chosen. A different take on traditional Venison Pie, the Venison Pâtisserie was a culinary masterpiece and quite possibly the winning dish of the day.
My go-to wine of choice is proudly South African Pinotage, but there is something special about La Petite Ferme’s Shiraz 2016. Anyone who has enjoyed this superb wine will know what I mean.
Our super sweet ending was full of South African flavour with a twist – a Quartet of South Africa which featured a melk tert (milk tart), pampoen koekies (pumpkin cookies), hertzoggie (jam-filled tartlet or cookie with a coconut topping) and koeksisters (a traditional Afrikaner confectionery made of fried dough infused in syrup or honey) Craig opted for the Warm Malva Pudding with guava sorbet and a silky smooth coffee-cardamom crème anglaise.
La Petite Ferme is the place to go for an unforgettable experience that will wow you with exquisite food, award-winning wines, warm hospitality and breathtaking views.
Dinner at Marigold – Franschhoek
Prepare yourself for a magical culinary carpet ride at Marigold! I am no expert when it comes to Indian cuisine, but since I first dined here in 2017, my perception of Indian food has changed. Marigold Head Chef Vanie Padayachee has created something really special at Franschhoek’s first authentic Indian restaurant.
The extensive menu offers a variety of exquisite Indian dishes, from fragrant curries and briyanis to succulent meat cooked in the charcoal tandoor. Do not be intimidated by the menu. The impeccably dressed and knowledgeable waitrons are happy to guide you through the many options and assist you in choosing your meal. If you are dining in a group, why not try the Marigold Thali? This sharing menu is ideal as various small portions are served on one platter and you can savour sweet, salty, spicy, crispy and sour flavours.
The wine list is also extensive, as with many establishments in Franschhoek, while Tuk Tuk beer is also available. Haut Espoir’s Gentle Giant 2012 complemented our meal beautifully.
Part of the prestigious Leeu Collection hospitality portfolio, dining at Marigold is a must for lovers of Indian cuisine. You can thank me later 😉
Breakfast At Big Dog Café – Franschhoek
If you crave a caffeine fix, super delicious and fresh food in a modern yet cosy, relaxed space with warm hospitality, then make sure you stop by the Big Dog Café. I really wish they would open a café like this in Cape Town!
Open since May 2017, the popular restaurant can be found at Terbodore’s flagship roastery situated on the main road just before you reach Franschhoek. We popped in for breakfast on a rainy morning, greeted by the fragrant aroma of freshly brewed coffee; a great start to the day. Ordering our coffees and breakfasts, we wandered around the café and gift shop.
My Coffee Cured Trout Open Sandwich not only looked amazing, it tasted heavenly too! The presentation scored top marks and the various flavours complemented each other beautifully. The dish consisted of house coffee cured Franschhoek trout, crème fraiche, daikon, avocado, orange segments and orange vinaigrette on toasted sourdough. I will return just to savour this delectable meal.
Once the rain cleared, we ventured outside to explore the beautifully tended garden. With plenty of space for kids to run around and play, a gentle stream, a labyrinth and a jungle gym, this is an ideal spot to chill for a few hours.
Bacon Anyone? Dinner At Spek & Bone – Stellenbosch
This delightful hidden gem, tucked away off Dorp Street at a historic site next to the original Stellenbosch market and behind Oom Samie Se Winkel, is a great spot for small plate sharing while enjoying a fine selection of South African wines beneath some of the oldest producing fruit vines in Stellenbosch.
Celebrated South African Chef, Bertus Basson, is the owner of Spek & Bone, so named after the classic combination of pork and beans – Spek the pig and Bone, the boxer puppy. Word is that the unlikely pair are best friends and Bertus and his wife Mareli have assured everyone that they will never eat Spek. He is as much a part of the family as Bone, and both are dearly loved.
The extensive wine list features an impressive array of champagne, MCC, white and red wines, as well as some dessert wines. Craig suggested we try the Fram Pinotage 2016 from Citrusdal which was an excellent choice.
The food menu offers a tasty selection of small plates to share. We just had to try the Bowl of Bacon (yes, you read that right!), basted with maple syrup and served with a chilli mayonnaise. At only R40 per bowl, it rates as quite simply one of the best things I have ever eaten in my life! Seriously, I am not kidding. We shared one bowl as the portion is generous and we needed space to taste a few more dishes.
The Deep Fried Camembert with Poached Pears was flavoursome, but the standout dish for me (besides the Bowl of Bacon) was the Sautéed Potato Gnocchi in a heavenly Huguenot sauce, button mushrooms and Huguenot crisps. Gnocchi is one of my favourite dishes and when it is cooked perfectly with oodles of flavour, I am in foodie heaven! I will return to Spek & Bone just for the bacon and gnocchi dishes. I could easily spend a few indulgent hours under the vines on a warm spring day.
FOR THE CULTURE LOVERS
Dine With Locals in Kayamandi – Stellenbosch
Considered the second oldest township in the country, Kayamandi (meaning “sweet home” in Xhosa) is part of Stellenbosch’s Route 360 cultural tourism initiative. Walking tours are available where you can meet and engage with locals before dining with them in their home.
We had the pleasure of being invited to enjoy lunch with Nokawe in her home. Here she introduced us to Thandie, a talented single mother of two children with the voice of an angel. She sang a capella in English and Xhosa and mesmerized us with her golden voice. Nokawe, dressed in traditional Xhosa garments, regaled us with stories of getting married and what is expected of a young bride, various customs, traditions and township life.
While chatting and getting to know each other, we enjoyed a delicious feast of freshly baked mini vetkoek (traditional Afrikaner fried dough bread), followed by a chicken casserole, samp and beans, chakalaka (a spicy South African vegetable relish), cauliflower, broccoli and carrots.
Dining with locals was a first time experience for me which I enjoyed and found very interesting. It is a unique opportunity to learn more about the rich and cultural diversity of the Stellenbosch community in Kayamandi.
WHERE TO STAY
Le Franschhoek Hotel & Spa – Franschhoek
This luxurious property, nestled in the picturesque Franschhoek Valley in a fairytale setting, makes for a perfect romantic and tranquil getaway. Hubby and I stayed here many years to celebrate my birthday, so the hotel holds a special place in my heart. Situated a few minutes’ drive from the village of Franschhoek, prepare to have your breath taken away by the stunning mountain vistas and scenic landscape. Greeted warmly by the hotel staff and offered a glass of MCC (yes please!), we were each shown to our spacious and stylish deluxe rooms.
Boasting beautiful mountain views, luxurious finishes and under-floor heating, I was tempted to stay in my room until we departed for dinner. But the explorer in me took advantage of a break in the rain and off I went for a leisurely walk around the property.
The lush gardens are very pretty and worth a leisurely and peaceful stroll. If I had more time, I would have enjoyed an indulgent pampering at the Camelot Spa. They offer various dining options, activities, conference and wedding facilities.
I think a longer stay is required to experience all that this lovely hotel has to offer. Read here for more info and how to book your stay,
Spier Hotel – Spier Wine Farm, Stellenbosch
Established in 1692, Spier is one of South Africa’s oldest wine farms, with a fascinating history and legacy. This wine tourism destination offers something for everyone. The hotel in particular ensures that parents and their kids have everything they need for a memorable stay. One night stay isn’t quite enough to see and do it all, but I caught a glimpse on my meander around the estate’s lush and spacious grounds.
Spier is about farm-to-table food and award-winning wines (they are one of 39 WWF Conservation Champions) and these can be sampled at the various eateries dotted around the estate and the Tasting Room on the banks of the Spier Dam.
Art and good farming, along with a strong focus on sustainability and a commitment by the people to live and work in a manner that brings positive change to the environment and community is a big part of what makes Spier a special place. My family and I have been to Spier on many occasions, and always enjoy walking around the historic grounds and seeing what new developments have been made.
Exploring the farm is easy with their Voicemap route and various running routes. I enjoyed a leisurely bicycle ride back to the hotel. Segway Tours have been added to the list of activities and I wish we had a chance to glide through the farm to the vineyards.
My Signature Riverside Room, located upstairs with views of the garden and mountains, was spacious and elegantly furnished with plenty of natural light. Other room features included an energy-efficient mini-bar and en-suite bathroom with a separate water-wise shower. I stared lovingly at the large bath, but due to the water restrictions caused by the severe drought in the Western Cape, I could only dream about languishing in a bubble-filled tub. With so much to see and do at Spier, not to mention the surrounding winelands, plan to stay of at least a week 😉
These are just a few of the many places where you can eat, drink, stay and play in the gorgeous Cape Winelands. I’d love to know if you have visited this incredibly beautiful area of the Western Cape and your personal favourites.
Yours in Travel, Food and Wine xoxo
Please note – I was kindly hosted by DiscoverCTWC (Discover Cape Town & Western Cape). All views, content and images are my own unless otherwise indicated. All prices were correct at the time of publishing.
Cecil Fielies from Cape Winelands DM joined us during our trip.
Escape To The Cape provided the transport.
